Land of Ice and Fire
Full disclosure - the land of ice and fire did not disappoint. I know it’s a place so many people are fascinated by (including me !) and having been, I can totally understand why. I think it would be unfair to describe it as picturesque but it’s most definitely scenic - rugged and raw. Most tourists make Reykavik their base and plan trips out and back, some take a road trip round the whole island. I opted for a 6 night visit (partly due to flight constraints). Yes, you could get a taste for the island in less time and possibly (dare I say it) cram more in than we did but it’s a holiday not an endurance tick box test. Anyway, on with the programme.
We took a leisurely afternoon easyJet flight from Gatwick to Reykjavik which departed bang on time (a miracle !) and flew across a totally cloudless England and Scotland, with great views of the West coast islands. An hour later, land was back in view once again, Ice-land - sorry, couldn’t resist a bad joke ! Through an eerily quiet Keflavik airport and into the snow covered hire car - neither of us had ever seen so many airport hire cars before, it’s nuts.
A short drive and into Hotel Berg, situated beside a small harbour at the far end of Keflavik town. Full disclaimer. Keflavik is a locals town and there’s not much there other than airport hotels. However, this spot was perfect and saved driving at night. They brand themselves as a higher end airport stopover and they certainly are. The restaurant, Fiskbarrinn is not cheap (their delicious 3 course menu comes in just shy of £60 but the portions are very generous, single main plates are £25-£40), but was absolutely delicious and definitely in the top 3 meals we had during our trip. So only a paragraph in and I’ve already broached the topic of prices. I would be lying if I said Iceland is cheap. It’s not. However, the quality was really top notch and similar in price to a good meal in London and dare I say probably cheaper than New York ! Back to Hotel Berg. They have a large hot tub style pool outside on the top floor which was super fun at night, especially to catch the northern lights (which we sadly missed - so now I have an excuse to return !). The rooms were comfy though not massive but this is a 1 night stop for most and they do have really nice communal comfy seating areas for guests.
Buffet breakfast number 1. I have to say, none of the hotel breakfasts were knock out amazing which was a surprise as all the other food across the trip was superb. I thought maybe this was to do with availability of produce but the supermarkets suggested otherwise - a conundrum. Anyway, just my opinion. Suitably filled, we hit the road, heading along route 44 on the Reykjanes Peninsula - formed entirely by lava - which has fortunately now cooled, mostly. Our first stop was at the bridge between continents - one of just 2 places in the world where you can walk between 2 tectonic plates and see the gradual separation of them - though watch closely as they only move a mere 2cm per year. Back into the toasty car and onto the Stomper crater row for a brief look (the 13km walk wasn’t inviting in -5c wind). Next to Gunnuhver Hot Springs where you can walk through the eggy mist that is active steam vents from below the earth - super cool, you can’t see a thing when in the mist and the best part, your clothes don’t retain the steam smell. The impressive Brimketill lava rock pool (not for swimming in) is impressive and fun to see the crashing waves too. We continued into Grindavik in search of a coffee stop. But continued in more of a hurry when firstly everything appeared abandoned and secondly when we both got volcanic action warning text messages. And as we found out 3 days later, this wasn’t a drill !
A few clicks of lava driving later and we arrived into Hveragerði and checked in to the Greenhouse Hotel. This was a far cry from the empty roads and settlements we had driven through and a great (almost American style) stop. We enjoyed lunch from their street food pop ups - a delicious fish salad and tacos / nachos (£15-25 per plate) before brewing their trendy shop. There’s around 5 street food units, a cafe, an ice cream shop and even a barbers in the downstairs open plan space. A short drive through the town saw us at the foot of Reykjadalur Valley where you can walk through the snowy hills (it’s well marked) to a river, fed by hot springs. It is not an ‘easy’ 3.7 km walk though, taking around 1 hour each way (and we were moving quite quickly). But wow, is it worth it. They have decking up a section of the river but beyond this it’s quieter though not all of the river is hot - as we discovered the hard way. And as it’s literally a mountain river of melted snow being fed by 100c + hot springs, finding the right spot is kind of important, as is getting in without scalding your feet. The river is shallow but oh so warm. To give you an idea, it was snowing when we were there and we stayed in for an hour ! And I could have stayed in till now - bliss. Back down we hiked, ready for a pizza and geothermal brewed beer from the fabulous Olverk (2 delicious woodfired pizzas, 1 beer - £40). I’m a pizza person and for me, they’re up there in the top 5 of all time - high praise. Back for another super comfy (and quiet - everywhere was !) sleep.
The best breakfast of the trip was from this spot. Fresh fruit, hooray, freshly baked pastries, bagels, breads, cheese, coffee, amazing yoghurt, eggs etc - I’ll stop making you hungry for a minute. We headed up to the local pool - Sundlaugin Laugaskarði (free tickets from hotel room). A 50 metre pool heated to 35 degrees (hot !) and smaller spa pools and a cold plunge tub (my kind of place !). Absolutely spotless, the system for changing keeps everything tidy and we were shocked by how clean and dry the floor was. They even have free tea and coffee. Across the road you can see Reykjafoss Waterfall - there’s a nice short walk you can do across the river but it was freezing so off we went to Selfoss, a town currently undergoing massive development and rebuilding. The Old dairy foodhall is the main building there with a range of fantastic looking pop up food and drink establishments and downstairs, the Skyr museum. For around £10 each, you can learn something new in a really well executed museum space. At the end of it, you get to try the Skyr with a delicious sample and mini açai jar - worth a stop for something a little different.
Onto road 35 we went, and down came the snow. A brief stop in the driving snow at the Kerid volcanic crater. The next stop was lunch, as we definitely hadn’t had enough food already. Friðheimar tomato farm, a very unusual eatery in the tomato greenhouses in Rekyholt. You can book a month in advance and sit in the original space or, like us, head to their walk in wine bar which is a lovely space with a delicious range of tomato themed food and drinks (the drinks don’t have anything to do with tomatoes). The classic tomato soup with home baked bread is sublime and without a doubt the best tomato soup I’ve ever had (£10 a portion). Nearby are 2 geothermal swimming spots - we opted for the secret lagoon (but Hrunalaug Hot Spring is also nearby, half the price and more natural but much smaller). The secret lagoon is special, all the spots were amazing and we chose a good mix but this is well worth a visit. It was especially atmospheric with crazy strong winds coming from nowhere.
From here, we ventured further inland to the Hotel Geysir, surrounded by thick looming clouds and the loudest thunder I’ve ever heard ! The public space is massive and seriously plush and the room didn’t disappoint either - shout out to the shower (I’m a hotel shower nerd !). The bar was lovely and cozy (everywhere inside is so warm in Iceland) and we enjoyed some superb drinks. The dinner was nice but for the price, the only place we went that we felt was a bit overpriced (around £90 for a fish main, a chicken salad main, an apple crumble and 1 glass of wine). Though you can eat while watching the geyser venting in the distance. Expenses swallowed, comfiness time.
Up for breakfast where we tried lava bread (baked underground) and some slightly strange attempts at hot breakfast - they should stick to delicious breads, pastries and yoghurt I think. But it was included so hey ho. Across the road to the geysirs and it was nice to be there early and beat the buses, the theme of the day actually thank goodness. Onwards to the end of the road (closed until Summer) to see Gulfoss waterfall which the photos below and the following words do not do justice - it’s incredible !
Southbound we went to the town of Laugarvatn where we enjoyed a super quiet time at Laugarvatn Fontana hot pools. A very impressive modern thermal spa on the edge of a lake, which you can venture into if you’re brave (around 6c) - so of course, we did ! They have a range of different style pools at different temperatures and a sauna and natural heated steam room too - which was ferociously hot (and this is with the snow outside !) and smells of hot meat. But it was definitely an experience ! Back inside we went to catch the 2:30 PM geothermal bakery tour where we experienced the baking of sweet rye bread in the hot springs, an old tradition that has been kept alive only in a few places. The tasting included delicious Icelandic butter and smoked trout. And then because I’m greedy, a ticket for the all you can eat soup buffet (£10). Also, I’ve never seen a soup buffet before so when in Rome - or rather, when in Laugarvatn !
Suitably filled, we continued South, passing through the Thingvellir National Park which was a pleasant change of scenery from the black lava we had started the trip with. We had a glorious walk here form the main carpark following a split in the volcanic rock to Oxarfoss waterfall and back via an old church and Summer residence of the prime minister. The water is so clear - you can do a snorkelling trip between plates here which I would definitely do if I returned.
From there, on the road into Reykjavik - we were both amazed how in less than 1km, the road went from practically empty to a busy 3 lane city ring road. The Grandi Hotel (by centre hotels who have 5 locations in the city) was our final base and another lovely spot too. No sooner had we arrived and off we went to what very quickly became our favourite restaurant and one you MUST try if you end up in Reykjavik. Forrettabarinn. We both opted for the 4 course fish menu (£40 each) and it is one of the best meals I have had - forget in Iceland - EVER ! It doesn’t look fancy from the outside and its not fancy inside either but a warm, open kitchened restaurant with fantastic service and oh so delicious food. Rammed full, we headed back to test out the hotel spa which is super slick and looks new. 2 warm pools, a massive sauna and ice bucket shower and rocking loungers (which is a first for me).
Another breakfast offering with plenty of choice, croissants and pretzels baked in house. Off we went to wander the city and get our bearings. The buildings seem more traditional and many of them original here unlike the other areas we visited. There are some fantastic bakeries here, so obviously I was in my element. Some nice shops too in amongst quite a few tacky tourist shops to avoid. Onto the iconic Hallgrimskirkja (church). Then to the very impressive Harpa concert hall building and surrounding area which clearly has the money injected into it building and shop wise. Lunch at DEIG workshop - delicious bagels and doughnuts amongst other pastries - love the retro vibes inside and the hotel behind it looked good too (filled bagels £5.50 ish or filled bagel, pastry & drink combo £10). Great excitement on the TV too with live action of the Grindavik eruption (where we had been a couple of days earlier).
On we walked through the harbour and past some cool food spots and industrial units come shops. But it was the Lava show we were heading for. And a show it was ! Cinema seating, dramatic video introduction, then lava - real 1000c molten lava pouring down a chute beyond our protective goggles. Amazing live science and such a good way to bring the tectonics to life. It is hot though so get ready to t-shirt it all the way to the end of the show ! To cool us down, we headed to Omnom ice cream shop which serves up delicious soft serve creations (£5-7 each).
Back to the hotel for, you guessed it, more spa time. Out for a lovely wander through the historical centre and past some cool buildings ending up at the Chickpea falafel spot and boy was it worth the walk (to be fair it wasn’t far away). Delicious sourdough wraps or salad bowls with the best falafel, fresh veg and toppings (around £12-15 per dish). Back for a lovely (free) drink at the hotel.
Up for a Hygge bakery breakfast of delicious pastries (£4-6 each but oh so worth it !). Deliciousness devoured, on the road we were, headed for our final spa - boo hoo ! It was a 50/50 between here and the sky lagoon but Hvammsvik Hot Springs it was. A stunning drive along the coast (probably the best yet) and into the very elegantly designed thermal bath spot, located in the middle of Hvalfjörður “Whale Fjord”. The main building is cool, almost like an on old aircraft hangar with a great cafe and bar, which you can even swim up to from the main (of 8) hot pools. What sets this spot apart though is that the pools are saltwater and some are refreshed by the tides. The steam room was also pretty epic in design and the views from the pools make it even more special. I braved the 4c sea, a great way to cool off instantly - I can confirm that it feels cold alright !
Back we went, stopping at Brauð & Co bakery for a delicious pretzel croissant filled with ham and cheese (£5). We stopped for a wander in the Reykavik park, which has some interestingly massive houses around it. The original plan was to stop at the Arbaer outdoor museum (which looks fab) but someone (me) may have not wanted to leave the hot pools in any hurry. Back we went, stopping to pick up some Icelandic products from one of the many huge supermarkets. Dinner tonight was at Pósthús Food Hall & Bar where we enjoyed a cracking (but spicy) Indian salad and Icelandic fish and chips which was equally yummy (plenty of cuisine choices with main dishes £20 - £30). Back we went via Gaeta Gelato, which was worth a stop (£5 for 2 scoops), to reflect on what had been a fantastic trip in such a unique location.
A quick breakfast and 45 minutes of driving later, we were back at Keflavik airport, which is very spacious with some nice shops and food spots too. Back to a warm Gatwick (I’ve never got off a plane in the UK and thought it’s warm which just shows how chilly Iceland was - living up to its name I guess ! Now onto the next trip. I’m joking - kind of.
A little more detail below if you’re actually interested or know someone who might be… It’s worth noting, I organised the trip a month in advance.
How were the flights ?
Honestly, probably the easiest and most relaxed flight I’ve ever been on. I guess we were lucky ! Though Keflavik airport is massive and there’s not that many flights in there so unless there’s an eruption or serious snowfall, you should get in pretty smoothly. It was pretty reasonably priced too, just note that Iceland air take the route from easyjet over the spring and summer months and they are more expensive.
How was the driving ?
We went with Avis - around £240 for the week for a mid range car - so similar to UK airport car hire. There are so many options but make sure it’s at the right airport (as Reykavik has 2 !) and at the actual airport terminal as it’s a long way otherwise ! I don’t drive but my driver (correction - travel buddy !) and I agreed that the roads were mixed - some are great, others full of massive holes so watch out as you wouldn’t want to get stuck here. Also, only the main roads are open year round and accessible by hire car, others involve river crossings so require 4x4s only - it’s fairly obvious though if you’re off the main routes. All the hotels had free parking apart from Grandi in Reykavik but you can park in the harbour shopping area for free (<5 mins walk from here). The phone signal was incredible, even in more remote locations which made google mapping our routes very easy. It’s worth checking garage locations as sometimes they are few and far between in places and as we discovered (!), not many of them have air for tyres.
Was the accommodation passable ?
We both loved everywhere we stayed, all for different reasons and it was a really good mix of places. Funnily enough, they were all very similar in price (around £150-175 per night including breakfast). These were all mid - higher end places so you can get cheaper but when it’s Wintery outside, we agreed it was good to have decent places to return to in the evenings. I know I criticised the breakfasts a bit - partly maybe due to being a bit of a hotel breakfast enthusiast (if that’s a thing !). But outside of Reykavik (where I’d happily just go to the different bakeries), theres not masses of alternatives elsewhere. The beds were all super comfy and probably the best I’ve slept on a holiday.
How’s the food and drink ?
This is the big one. And I can say I enjoyed everything and we didn’t have a mediocre meal once on the entire trip. Tipping isn’t expected here and whilst there are some real expensive spots, you can have delicious food and not break the bank. Plus there’s such a range of cuisines to try here so you won’t be left eating fermented shark (which we did not attempt) every night. Lots of restaurants do what they call a tasting menu - often quite good value and it’s not tasting as you would know it as the portions are huge - we agreed we could easily have shared these. Wine comes in around £8-£10 for a decent sized glass which is comparable to London. Pop up food is definitely on the pricey side and we didn’t see much difference between lower end places and mid-higher end establishments so you may as well go for it !
Are the people alright ?
Everyone we met was super friendly - both Icelandic and otherwise. There’s clearly a lot of tourists here (particularly in this area) but we didn’t feel it was overrun.
Is there enough to do ?
There’s a great range of things to see and do, the hot pools for us was the main draw as you can probably gather from the number we visited ! The guided trips from Reykavik (or Geyser hotel) seemed good too but we liked having the flexibility to adjust our plans as we went. The tectonic activity is fascinating and there are some incredible sights not to be missed. What I would say is for us, Reykavik was a good base but not the kind of city break to just stay around the city centre - it’s nice to wander around for a day but that’s enough. They do have some great museums there though, great if you can’t get to everywhere yourself. Perlan is the main museum, theres also many public pools with thermal bathing in the city (and in most towns we passed) but there’s much more to see and do. You could even fly up to the North (Akureyri) from the Reykavik airport and return to the UK direct from there - this was our original plan !
Would you return ?
Yes. Without a doubt. I would love to see the glacier, snorkel between continents (we saw where this took place) and explore the North part - which looks equally interesting. I think it’s a great stop off destination, en route to the US or further afield. We couldn’t compare it to anywhere else we had ever been and I think my inner geography nerd wanted to be up close to the eruption.